If Savile Row is the heart of bespoke tailoring, designers such as Caroline Andrew are most definitely its soul. At just 33 years old, Andrew has already established herself as one of the go-to names in London for custom-made suiting and high-end ready-to-wear garments. But the road was never going to be an easy one — all the more so in an environment that can be elitist and particularly unwelcoming to women.
Growing up in rural Scotland, Andrew would tinker with her grandmother’s sewing machine, turning upholstery fabrics into creative projects of her own design. She quickly fell in love with menswear for its attention to detail, sturdiness and symmetry — the draping and fluid fabrics of haute couture never held the same appeal. "I’m quite organized and I like structure," she says, "so that reflects in how I make things."
In her final year of study at the storied London College of Fashion, Andrew was assigned to produce a small collection. She plied several grumpy, veteran tailors in the basement of a Savile Row shop with coffee and croissants for the privilege of watching them work. After two weeks, she brought in her own garments and managed to get some personal guidance. Working for free at several of these establishments, she made her way through Savile Row, putting in time at storied houses such as Edward Sexton and Henry Poole before leaving the Row to work for a tailor in the City of London. "You can't just sit on your backside and be like, 'I have a degree,'" she says, "'cause in the creative industry, no one really gives a shit."
Five years in the City gave Andrew a window into a working environment less constrained than that of the highly traditional West End houses. Realizing that there was an opportunity for someone younger, more dynamic, and open to trying newer cuts while working at a faster pace, she returned to her old stomping grounds. She began designing and cutting garments in her own flat in January of 2018, and by July, she had opened a store on St. George Street in affluent Mayfair.
While it took some time to establish a customer base from scratch — the starting price for a two-piece Caroline Andrew suit is just shy of five grand — business was brisk. Word of mouth certainly helped, as did her social media savvy. "I never paid for PR or that kind of marketing," Andrew says, "but I had Instagram. At the beginning stages, getting to a thousand followers felt like a million."
Certain older houses might have an established, staid look, but Andrew is not afraid to take an unusual approach and makes garments in service of the customer. Want a single-breasted suit with a notched lapel and a soft shoulder in the Italian mold? Coming right up. How about a dinner jacket with a peak lapel in Black Watch wool? Done.
Andrew's rise was a classic story of grit yielding glory until the pandemic arrived in 2020. Robbed of the ability to meet with customers for fittings, Andrew made a deft pivot, developing a handsome field jacket in multiple fabrics that customers could purchase online. "There was no backup plan," she says.
The jacket was a hit, nailing the sweet spot of quarantine casual chic by looking just as good with a T-shirt and jeans as it does over a beautiful cashmere sweater and tailored trousers. By the end of 2020, when many businesses were closing their doors forever, she was able to open a second shop in chic, residential Kengsington.
These days, business is booming. Post-pandemic, the calls rolled in from customers who either put on a few pounds or lost them. As 2024 approaches, a third storefront may be next on the menu. And while she has plenty of international customers, her London base is strong, full of loyal clients who love her young energy, her openness, her creativity and, most importantly, her humility. Her drive, furthermore, is hard to miss.
"It was either make it or go back to Scotland and help out one of the farmers," she says.
But there was never going to be any retreat up north for Caroline Andrew. There’s simply too much work to be done.
The New Breed
Andrew isn't the only young designer shaking up English tailoring. Here are three more to know.
Oliver Cross
A fun-loving character with enormous energy, Ollie worked for a Savile Row firm that went bust during the pandemic and subsequently set up his own thing in London’s Oxo Tower.
Joe Holsgrove
Having won the prestigious Golden Shears award for tailoring in 2015, Holsgrove subsequently left Savile Row to set up his own shop. Beloved actor Bill Nighy is a fan.
Kimberley Lawton
Lawton’s eponymous brand caters to everyone, from businesspeople to artists. A highly sculpted house style can be married to a client’s individual taste for a more contemporary look.
