When Jacob Hurwitz, founder of American Trench, traveled to Norristown, PA, in the spring of 2019 to meet with knitwear manufacturer Camber’s co-owner Barry Schwartz to discuss manufacturing, they took an immediate liking to each other. As Hurwitz was kicking around brand names for a sweatshirt — an updated version of Camber’s rugged essential — Schwartz told him about Camber’s name prior to moving to their Norristown location: O.E. Sport. Hurwitz loved it; Schwartz said he could have it. American Trench’s O.E. line — which stands for "Original Equipment" — was born.
Over the next two years, there were countless factory visits and obstacles before the O.E. Keystone 1.0 Hoodie would hit the shelves. While unexpected tragedies — COVID-19, floods that cost Camber millions in lost merchandise — helped slow the process, the main delays were due to Camber’s strict factory policies (Camber patterns are prohibited from leaving the factory) and grueling design-to-production operations. But Hurwitz and team never wavered. They knew that what they were creating was going to be special. Perfect, even.
Now, with a year passed since the launch of O.E. Keystone Hoodie version 1.0, Hurwitz and his team of fashion experts have put what they learned into their latest iteration.
American Trench O.E. Keystone Hoodie 2.0: What We Think
The round of minor-yet-surgical tweaks that took this hoodie from version 1.0 to 2.0 have transformed it into an essential piece. It fulfills its duty by providing superior warmth and protection without sacrificing comfort. The fit of the 2.0 is more egalitarian than its predecessor, which catered to the slim-fit menswear crowd; the redistribution of the extra length to give a little more width should be appreciated by many.
The only true setback of the Keystone hoodies — outside of a lack of exciting color choices — might be the price; most folks likely don’t see themselves paying more than $160 for a hoodie. But the Keystone Hoodie is a manifestation of the resolute following Camber has cultivated over many years, and the faith they’ve put into American Trench and the O.E. line to represent their legacy.
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Version 2.0’s Updated Fit Is a Big Improvement
The main issue American Trench sought to fix on the 1.0 Keystone Hoodie was its proportions, which led to a slimmer, more fitted look that was longer than they’d hoped. They also felt the neckhole and hood were too small, leading to a shawl-like collar on some. (Admittedly, some customers actually liked this higher neckline.)
The 2.0 basically sizes everything up from last year, including the width of the body, the neck hole and the hood, while making the body a little shorter for a roomier fit that sits perfectly on the waist. While 1.0 failed to nail down the sizing issue for pre- and post-wash, 2.0 gets it right — all hoodies are hot-washed and dried at the dye house to squeeze all the shrinkage out.
It Feels Like a Cozy Suit of Armor
It might be hard to imagine just how heavy 12-ounce cotton-poly blend knit is, but it's essentially a few degrees removed from chainmail in sheer heft. The heavyweight fabric has a tough exterior that is virtually impenetrable — against the elements, not medieval weaponry — but doesn't sacrifice mobility or comfort. The thick cotton fleece lining feels like a teddy bear hugging you all day, as well.
The Best Feature, the Patina, Comes with Wear, Time and Love
Patience is a virtue that will not only prepare you for life's most challenging tests, but it can also help build the absolute best patina you’ll ever see on a hoodie. The heavyweight cross-knit fabric construction has a rigidity to it similar to canvas or raw denim. With enough wear-and-tear, the resulting "slubbing" will cause some beautiful fading — and a patina that makes the hoodie look priceless. Ready to make your own vintage?
American Trench O.E. Keystone Hoodie 2.0: Alternative
The obvious alternative to the O.E. Keystone Hoodie is Champion's 12-ounce Reverse Weave hoodie, considering the many similarities in weight and construction — both touting 12-ounce cotton fleece cross-knit fabric for durability and minimal shrinkage. And as one of the most recognized brands in the world who've been using their reverse weave technology since 1938, they know what they're doing.
However, if you have both pieces in hand, they aren't really in the same realm. Even though they are the same weight, the Keystone feels more substantial, only matched by the seams which are virtually indestructible in comparison to the Champion iteration. But if you're just looking for a hoodie with no real expectations regarding longevity from wear and you don't want to come completely out-of-pocket, Champion may fit the bill.
A version of this story first appeared in Gear Patrol Magazine. Learn More.
